Producer: Domaine Rebourgeon-Mure
Wine: 2020 Volnay
Varietal: 100% Pinot Noir
Review: "Soft-spoken winemaker David Rebourgeon was on hand to guide me through his 2020s, which he picked from August 22 and then over the following week. Unfortunately, his production was 50% down in 2020, and 60% down in 2021, when some of the Premier Cru Volnay bit the dust. Rebourgeon explained to me how his vertical Bucher press was so useful in 2020 in terms of gentle and precise pressing. This was a superb set of wines from one of several growers who are proving Pommard to be one of the fastest-improving appellations in the Côte d'Or. The wines are surfeit with tension and energy and do not short-change in terms of flavor. You'll not find many better Volnay Caillerets or Pommard Grands Epenots than at this address. Rebourgeon is starting to gain a well-deserved reputation, so try to bag what you can given the reduced yields." - Vinous
Food: Couscous with meat and/or poultry, quiche, braised and roasted meats, fillet with red wine and wild mushrooms, flavored cheeses.
Cellaring: Drink now or cellar 2024-2036
David Rebourgeon now directs this eight-hectare Pommard domaine that continues to fly somewhat under the radar. It is one of the oldest estates in Pommard, started by his ancestor Jean Bourgogne in 1552 who had taken a 99 year lease to raise vines at the holy abbey, Marguerite of Bouillard.
From the heart of Pommard, the Rebourgeons tend 18 acres divided between many well regarded holdings in the appellations of Beaune, Volnay and Pommard, planted entirely in Pinot Noir and averaging more than 40 years with the oldest parcels of Pommard planted in 1902.
Plowed soils and minimal chemical treatments are the order of the day in the vineyards; in the cuverie and cellars, the grapes are entirely destemmed, with a classical maceration emphasizing gentle extraction. Élevage lasts for 14-18 months in modest percentages of new oak. The result is elegant and beautifully balanced wines that display excellent textural finesse and which might justly be described as understated—even slightly old-fashioned—in style. This is an address that will delight Burgundy purists and which also happens to offer keen value.
Volnay Appellation Village is located in the Côte de Beaune region (Côte-d’Or). The appellation includes 29 Premiers Crus Climats. Producing communes: Volnay for the appellation Volnay, Meursault for the Climat Santenots. On the label, the appellation Volnay and Volnay Premier Cru may be followed by the name of the Climat of origin.
Volnay, perched on the hill of Chaignot high up in the Côte de Beaune, is located on narrow and steep slops. The hill is oriented slightly differently from the general run of the country so that the vines face South-East rather than East. These vineyards have been valued and exploited for centuries. Long before the Revolution, the harvests of Volnay went to the Knights of Malta, the Abbeys of Saint-Andoche d’Autun and Maizières, or to the Dukes of Bourgogne and their successors, the Kings of France.
The style of this red Pinot Noir wine was set as early as the 18th century. It gained its controlled appellation status in 1937. The appellation Volnay is twinned with Volnay-Santenots, grown in neighboring Meursault on ground equally suited to the Pinot Noir grape.
Information by: Burgundy Wines